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Vintage,
Mod,
OOAK, &
Silkstones
Your Barbie by
Year
Your Questions Answered
Email Me
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Hair
(Photo used with permission from
'Paintings that
Fly')
Q. How do I re-flock a vintage Ken doll that has a lot of bald
spots?
A. You can simply put the new flocking over the original flocking. I use a white glue
(Elmer's Glue works fine). And if you are not satisfied with your first
attempt, it is really easy to peel the dried glue/flocking off the
head and start over.
If you would like to order some flocking material so you may re-flock your Ken at home,
email me and I will help you determine what colors you will need. Please see
this page on my site for more information: Restoration
Products for Sale. I also offer re-flocking
as part of my restoration services.
**One word of
caution; Lately someone emailed and said she had been advised to put permanent
marker on Ken's bald head first, under the flocking. It looked terrible and she
wondered how she could remove this. Please do not do anything permanent such as
this to a doll. It is not necessary and the felt pen can migrate to the
surrounding vinyl and permanently stain it..
INSTRUCTIONS FOR RE-FLOCKING YOUR KEN: Brunette Ken will use the 'black' flocking. Blonde Kens look best with my custom mix -- though the colors will not be an exact match (so the entire head will need to be re-done). I also like to clean his face first (Use something gentle like Orange Clean or Twin Pines Formula 911. Even rubbing alcohol is ok to use, but avoid getting any cleaning product on retouched face paint and use a q-tip very gently over original face paint). Make sure Ken is dry and clean! Next, pour some white glue (such as Elmer's) on his head and spread it around the head, over the original flocking and exposed areas, with your fingertip. Cover the entire area. You can use a q-tip along the outer edge to shape the hairline. Just a light coat of glue is necessary. Then pour a bit of the flocking product onto a piece of wax paper. Holding Ken over the wax paper (to catch the excess flocking as it falls) you sprinkle and pat the flocking directly onto Ken's head until you achieve the desired effect and the entire head is covered. A nice thick coat of flocking will help you avoid later touch-ups. You can take a small, dry paint brush and clear away any excess flocking remaining on Ken's face. Let Ken's head dry for 24 hours. You may need to repeat the process here or there if you note any bald spots on his head after the glue has dried.
A. I read on the internet to use fabric softener on the
doll's hair. Should I be using that?
Q. No no no! Fabric softener is made of hazardous chemicals and you should not
even be putting that your hands. It does nothing to remove the tangles,
and it makes a mess of the doll's hair since it does not completely rinse out.
Please just wash your doll's hair with plain dish washing liquid and de-tangle
it with hair conditioner (like Suave).
Q. How can I change the color on a golden yellow
Color Magic doll to the scarlet flame hair color?
A. The color changes when there is a change in the PH of the hair. No harsh
chemicals are necessary. Dissolve some baking soda (about
a heaping spoonful) in a cup of warm water and then dunk the doll's hair in it.
The scarlet color should stay for about a year before it
slowly start to change back to yellow. To change the scarlet hair
back to the golden yellow, white vinegar in water is used. If hair has
been overly played with over the years, it may no longer respond to the change
in Ph.
Q. How do I remove a Fashion Queen wig from its wig stand or from the
doll's head? It is stuck and I don't want to ruin it.
A. The two plastics have fused together over time. The best thing to do is
(using a blow dryer) heat the area that has fused and gently pry the two pieces
apart. Be careful not to singe the hair.
Q. I have a platinum swirl who's hair has faded to a dull pale blonde. Part of her
ponytail is white, so I know this was her original color. Do you have any ideas to revive
her hair back to
it's original color?
A. Unfortunately there is currently no proven, safe method that I know of for
restoring the oxidized hair.
Please remember that these are 50 year old toys and not fine collectibles that were meticulously crafted.
As you said, there are no empty holes so, in my opinion, it would ruin the doll to add in more hair.
Q. How can I tell if a doll has been re-rooted? I bought a ponytail that was advertised as all original, but her hair is very silky and not cotton-y like my childhood doll. I hate to pop her head off to look inside since she has the large
neck knob. Thank you for your time.
A. Unfortunately it is very difficult for me to determine without seeing the doll in person. Much depends on what year ponytail this is.
For example, the Swirl ponytail and the ponytails past 1960 can have very smooth hair if it has never been played with.
Usually the best way to tell is by looking inside the head. If the hair is a re-root then you will see a mess of little
knots inside.
Barbie (and Friends) by Year -- Information and photos that will assist you in identifying your Vintage/Mod Barbies and friends
Identification Help -- Common questions I receive about the dolls and how to identify them
How to care for and display your valuable collection
Bodies - General information about cleaning and repairing
Faces - General information about caring for the faces, green ear treatment, neck split repair, and re-coloring Mod dolls
The general information
I have chosen to include on these pages is here as a courtesy
to collectors of Vintage and Mod BarbiesŪ and friends.
I am
unable to answer your 'how-to' restoration emails, nor do I provide further step
by step instruction.
This Web site is for your personal and non-commercial use only. You may copy
information on this Web site for your own personal use, however other than copying for
personal use, you may not copy, modify, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce,
publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained
from this Web site.
Every reasonable effort has been taken by me to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained within this entire web site. However, I take no responsibility for any losses,
injury or detriment whatsoever, real or implied, arising from the information and/or
references contained within this entire site.
Before continuing any further, please
carefully read my disclaimer page.
Please note that
I have limited (or no) experience with non-Mattel fashion dolls, modern Mattel fashion
dolls (anything newer than 1970 and/ or not made in Japan), or any other
types of dolls.
**I do not identify
dolls via email, nor can I verify authenticity, unless
I see the doll in person. I do offer this as a paid service. Please email
me if you would like to send your doll or collection for a written appraisal.
An appraisal fee + return shipping costs will apply.**
